2010年7月18日星期日
A Watch For Super Heroes: The Linde Werdelin Two-Timer Biformeter Watch Revew
I can't know with any precision what Linde Werdelin wanted to communicate in their Biformeter watches style-wise, but I do know what the handsome look communicates to me: a degree of confidence and a feeling of arduous strength. It is a design that feels right for its purposes, and then some.The precision sculpted look of the case and hands is anything but over the top, though it feels novel, and appears perfectly comfortable in its skin. This is of course a tool, and also a timepiece. Don't confuse it with a fashion accessory, although it stands in as one admirably. As such, this is an extremely sturdy watch built to withstand the world's most extreme adventuring, and this watch will survive in places you won't.The subject of this review is a Two-Timer Biformeter watch in steel with a red lacquered face, though Linde Werdelin offers many versions of its Biformeter watch line. The Two-Timer designator is different than the base Elemental version. The difference is the movement which is the ETA 2893-2 versus the 2892-2. The 2893-2 adds a GMT complication. This is the finest base movement that Swiss ETA makes, and arrives in this watch in its highest grade. The moment you unscrew the crown, you'll identify the feel of this movement as manually winding the watch feels like it is lubricated with butter, which is good. Lower grade movements give you a harsher feeling when winding.I recall that as a kid, I was often really excited about the toy versions of items and implementations I'd seen in movies or comic books. The 'play' version of the Ghostbusters' photon pack just didn't remind me enough of the real ones on the screen, and the kid's Batman utility belt just didn't have enough utility, though it was booming with plasticine charm. I just never found anything 'real' enough to satisfy the desires I had (and probably still have) to live out fantasy adventures.What are we provided with in real life to live out adventures now? Really utilitarian stuff mostly. Go to a sporting goods store and you won't find much that makes you feel or look like an outdoor superhero. Yeah, you'll be warm, and dry, and protected - but you won't have that feeling of technological superiority and invulnerability that you are really longing for. That is, unless you have something from Linde Werdelin.Most watch companies don't really go into discussing the impetus behind their design decisions.
2010年7月16日星期五
Sellita Further Targets ETA With the SW300 And SW500 Watch Movements
These are almost direct clones of the ETA 2892 and Valjoux 7750 respectively.While the SW300 and SW500 aren't going to be carbon copies of the ETA movements, they are going to have the exact some dimension and functions. Sellita says that they will be the same quality as well, and considering the popularity of the SW200 in the market, they are likely not embellishing. The ETA 2892 is their three-hand with date "high grade" automatic movement, and the 7750 is the workhorse chronograph day/date automatic movement used by like a bazillion mechanical chronograph watches. The idea is that a SW300 or SW500 movement will fit in place of any 2892 or 7750 in a watch that was designed for them. This is important and Sellita wants brands to drop in their movements where an ETA movement used to sit.Aside from Sellita, I don't think anyone has what it takes to provide ETA quality stuff. It seemed like anyone with enough start-up money could set up shop, design a watch, and have a series of supplier make the parts and use Swiss movements they bought from elsewhere. This created a divide between true watch makers, and those that could put together a watch like a good meal recipe, using available parts (custom or otherwise). But that is a topic for another discussion.With the availability of ETA ebauches becoming close to extinct this year, where are the brands that do not make their own movements to turn? Already some of the major brands are just giving up buying movements and starting to make their own - either in part or almost for all their watches. Panerai is *** more and more of their own movements and Breitling has at least one of their own movements so far. However, Breitling has more or less admitted that no matter how expensive ETA movements get, they will have to buy them - they have no choice otherwise.At the same time ETA will have competitors. They already do, but I think that existing watch movement makers will up their production. Already everyone is looking at Sellita. The also Swiss movement maker produces the SW200 movement (that I discussed here). The SW200 is a more or less clone of the popular ETA 2824-2. So what about other popular ebauches that will no longer be available from ETA? Well Sellita now has the SW300 and SW500 movements.
2009年12月4日星期五
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2009年11月25日星期三
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